This was a little project from nearly 3 years ago which I did not post at the time as I kept forgetting to take a photograph of the hatch once installed.
The object was to install an access hatch which would allow me to get at the heads of the bolts that I planned to install when mounting the remote controls for the outboard.
Since installing the hatch I have changed the outboard controls from remote controls to tiller controls so the hatch has now become a bit superfluous, however it will still be handy enough should I ever want to store anything in the side buoyancy tank or if I just want to check inside the tank, although visibility is obviously limited due to the polystyrene packed in there.
Since installing the hatch I have changed the outboard controls from remote controls to tiller controls so the hatch has now become a bit superfluous, however it will still be handy enough should I ever want to store anything in the side buoyancy tank or if I just want to check inside the tank, although visibility is obviously limited due to the polystyrene packed in there.
Hatch -3 years after fitting |
The hatch I chose to install was a Trem Hatch - external diameter 140mm opening size 110mm cut out size 115mm. This was arounf 6 pounds including postage and packaging.
- The first thing I did was to place the hatch surround against the tank side and after checking that it was in the position that I wanted it I marked the inside and outside edges. This allowed me to determine the location and size of hole that I wanted to cut, as the hole to be cut was 5mm larger in diameter than the marked inside edge of the opening. I chose to use the hatch surround as a template rather than scribe a circle with a pair of compasses as I wanted to see the hatch ring when set against the buoyancy tank just to see how it looked in position.
- Using an 8mm drill bit I drilled 4 pilot holes at 12 o'clock, 3 o'clock, 6 o'clock and 9 o'clock which would allow me to cut the hole out using a jigsaw. One hole would have been sufficient as the hole was simply to allow the blade to get started, but by drilling 4 it made it easier to stop and start the cut if I wanted to reposition myself while cutting.
Hole after cutting - smudged pencil marks still visible |
- After cutting the hole with an electric jigsaw, I gave the cut surface of the glass fiber a rub with some sandpaper to remove any rough edges.I also had to remove the marks left by the base plate of the jigsaw which had smudged the pencil marks that I had made when marking out the hatch position. – see photograph.
- With the hole cut, the next step was to cut away some of the polystyrene which fills the buoyancy chamber - this was to allow me to get to the end of the mounting bolts for the remote controls. This was a simple task which I used a Stanley knife saw for.
- After checking that the hatch surround fitted correctly I offered it up and using one of the pre-existing holes for the 8 fixing bolts as a template, I drilled a single hole through the fiberglass of the buoyancy tank. I would drill the remaining seven in stages as I fitted the hatch surround.
- After applying a bead of silicon to the hatch surround I put it in place and after inserting a single M6 stainless steel bolt (Grade 316 stainless steel) I secured it using a stainless steel washer and a Nylock nut. At this stage the nut was only nipped up and not fully tightened.
- With one bolt in place I drilled the hole diametrically opposite and inserted another bolt, continuing this process until all the bolts were installed.
- Once all the bolts were installed I went around them again fully tightening one and then the one diametrically opposite it.
This hatch is one of two that I have installed in Tra Bhui, the other being in the side of the forward buoyancy tank to allow access to the nuts on the bolts which secure the anchor mount.
Hi
ReplyDeleteDid you sell this boat, would be interested if it’s still around. Thanks